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Driving on the Isle of Man

1 year ago

Writer:

Henry Catchpole | Journalist

Date:

20 November 2024

Saluting a lone Magpie. The right shoe always going on first. Avoiding those triple CATV (Community Antenna Television, if you were wondering) covers on pavements. Superstitions I’ll generally try to hide or at least not draw attention to. It feels a bit daft. A slightly embarrassing mental disfigurement I want to cover up. Yet that reticence is in itself a bit silly. It would be much better to embrace these quirks because in doing so I suspect I’d free myself from the strangely compelling burden they exert.

It’s why boldly saying ‘hello fairies’ feels so refreshing. Catch the bus from the Isle of Man Airport down to Douglas on the A5 and there will be a chorus of greetings to the Mooinjer Veggey (Little People, in Manx) as you cross a small bridge decorated with flowers, ribbons and photographs. It’s a tradition or superstition I was introduced to the first time I went to the island, 20 years ago. We weren’t even due to pass Fairy Bridge on that occasion, but we had to make a detour (as many TT riders do) to go and visit nonetheless. Some won’t say anything of course, but there is no stigma attached to this superstitious salutation.

It’s a similar sense of breaking free, when you accelerate past a white circle with a diagonal black line through it and keep going… 60mph, 70mph, 80mph, 90mph, 100mph. It feels strange the first time; like a wary wild creature being released back into its natural habitat, you feel like there might be a trap. Surely this is too good to be true? But it’s not and it’s wonderfully liberating, not just physically but, more importantly I’d argue, mentally.

Driving on the Isle of Man is a high-speed rollercoaster thrill

With a clear road ahead and a car that is more than happy to be driven that quickly, you soon settle down, adjusting to the new norm, free from numbers. Rather like the autobahn, it’s not that you always want to be going as fast as you can, it’s just glorious to be able to make progress and not have to worry about the numbers. You know whether the car is underneath you, stable or skittish. You know how quickly you can stop.

You can be doing 120mph somewhere in one car and be much safer than doing 30mph somewhere else in another. It’s all about context. There are still rules to obey, they’re just more complex in their definition, more elastic in their boundaries once the strict governance of a set speed is removed. There is arguably more thought required to determine right from wrong.

But the effort is worth it. Worth it for the fabulous feeling of hearing an unshackled flat-six or V12 stretch out for its yowling redline again and again. An octane-fuelled orchestra filling up a valley or rebounding off rock faces or drifting over the purple heather of a moorland. The controlled environment of a circuit is great, but for me it’s not a patch on driving on a road with all the extra colour and complication that brings.

quotes icon

"The Tourist Trophy’s A18 Snaefell mountain road is incredible and unmissable but despite being a relatively small rock there are a surprising number of other great roads on the island. Most are in the middle, just to the west of the A18"

Reminders of the TT races are everywhere

It's not just two-wheel motorsport that makes the island a destination for enthusiasts

A V12 Lamborghini on the mountain at sunset? Driving nirvana

Mark Higgins's 128mph lap in a car was competitive with the big bikes

One of my most cherished memories is a sunset run across the Mountain road from The Gooseneck to Creg-ny-Baa in a Lamborghini Aventador SV. Rush hour traffic had receded, wisps of cloud were wreathing the higher sections of road and the sky was a rich mix of pinks, mauves, blues and a lava-like orange. The dark red slice of Sant’Agata running free along the mountain mile and balanced on part throttle round the four corners of the Verandah was everything you dream about.

It’s why I love rallying; one of the ultimate expressions of that road race feeling now that the true Mille Miglia or Targa Florio no longer exist. And if you want to discover more than just the TT course on the Isle of Man then you’d do well to seek out some of the stages used on the Manx Rally. The Tourist Trophy’s A18 Snaefell mountain road is incredible and unmissable but despite being a relatively small rock – just 33 miles long and 13 miles wide – there are a surprising number of other great roads on the island. Most are in the middle, just to the west of the A18, but the south, beyond Foxdale, also has some lovely stretches that feel a bit like snippets of Yorkshire or the Cairngorms.

"Hopefully the Isle of Man will continue to be an oasis of trust and freedom in the Irish Sea. Every time I go I get goosebumps as I arrive – the same sort of tingles of anticipation that I feel when I arrive in Nürburg or hear a whistle and the distant, angry engine note of the first rally car approaching down a stage"

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I’ve often wondered whether it would be possible to turn back the clock and roll out truly derestricted speed limits to the rest of the United Kingdom again. Perhaps some of the current national speed limit signs would have to be replaced with 60mph signs, leaving only the very remotest roads to be truly free from any cap. And maybe you would need a special licence, one that came with the threat of more severe punishment if you were caught abusing the privilege and driving over 60mph without due care and attention.

Interestingly, on the Isle of Man new drivers must have an ‘R’ plate affixed to their car for the first 12 months and they’re not permitted to drive faster than 50mph anywhere. The Manx prison system also has a reputation for being somewhat more Dickensian in ambiance than that of the mainland. I suspect that’s no longer true since the Victorian penitentiary in Douglas was replaced by a more modern building in Jurby, but nonetheless the stories are passed down and the reputation remains alive enough to make some think twice before doing anything likely to land them behind bars.

It won’t happen, of course. A mile a minute will remain the legal upper limit on the sort of roads we love to drive in the rest of the UK. But hopefully the Isle of Man will continue to be an oasis of trust and freedom in the Irish Sea. Every time I go I get goosebumps as I arrive – the same sort of tingles of anticipation that I feel when I arrive in Nürburg or hear a whistle and the distant, angry engine note of the first rally car approaching down a stage. It’s a special atmosphere.

And I’ll happily continue to greet the fairies every time I go, just in case it is they who are preserving freedom, in more ways than one.