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2 years ago

Writer:

Andrew English | Journalist

Date:

25 June 2024

For a brief period, in early 2019, boiler suits had a high-fashion moment. ‘Why the boiler suit should be your new season style staple,’ boomed The Daily Telegraph fashion pages.

‘Power up: how boilersuits are crossing the fashion boundaries,’ wrote Morwenna Ferrier in The Guardian. And by spring that year, we were being encouraged to team up our boiler suit with statement belts, turtle-neck cashmere, standout colour and strappy heels. The micro trend soared and fizzed like a defective firework before being overtaken by the boiler suit’s arch enemy, the jump suit, as a staple of an about-town gal’s wardrobe.

As you might expect, I did my bit to sustain the boiler boom, though the allure of P&Cs ‘Wild Ones’ Ronnie Boilersuit featuring Shangri-La inspired chainstitch and Zippo pocket at £140 passed me by. Similarly, the Donna Ida Sadie Boiler Suit, a snip at £325, and so too Mondo Corsini’s Hepburn, a caviar-linen Boiler Suit at £345.

The boiler suit had become a catwalk star

My contribution is hanging on the back door, a navy-blue Tranemo 251113 original cotton with kneepad and ruler pockets and an ‘action back’ for free movement. And it’s the absolute dogs…

Tranemo supply North Sea oil and gas rigs; its stuff is super tough, but soft and comfortable. I thought my £65 very well spent, but it’s too nice. Far too nice in fact, to endure the life of grime and toil in my garage fixing cars and various decrepit motorcycles. For five years it’s been on the coat hook getting more buried every season. Perhaps I’ll pull it out when I’m doing the finer balancing of the six Weber carbs on Trixie the Triumph, looking as though I actually know what I’m doing rather than lying underneath the darn thing on sheets of oily cardboard.

My number two fashion statement coverall has been a navy-surplus former submariner’s cotton boiler suit, still with its name badge and twin dolphin submarine warfare insignia. It has a Velcro hook-and-eye centre fastening that grabs just about every piece of lint in the washing machine involving a painstaking de-fluffing when dry. Purchased five years ago for a princely sum of £15, it’s been doing sterling service lately and is currently soaking in the Belfast sink, swilling in an evil concoction of washing-soda crystals and something from Dr Beckmann to remove the film of copper grease used to ease the installation of Trixie’s new suspension.

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"‘Boiler suit’ is a relatively early description of the garment, an all-in-one with full-length sleeves and legs. It was originally designed to protect those poor souls who had to crawl around the innards of a steam locomotive"

Our man and his brother William modelling the latest in boiler suit fashion

Full disclosure, however: I own a total of five, maybe six boiler suits in various states of disrepair.

In case you were wondering, ‘boiler suit’ is a relatively early description of the garment, an all-in-one with full-length sleeves and legs, no gap between jacket and trousers and no loose jacket tails. It was originally designed to protect those poor souls who had to crawl around the innards of a steam locomotive after climbing into the fire box or a narrow access panel.

Relatively tight fitting with an absence of protruding fasteners, the idea was that the boiler suit would aid access and egress through narrow hatches, so that unlike Winnie the Pooh when visiting his friend Rabbit, you wouldn’t get stuck on the way out.

“One source suggests the first use of the term boiler suit was in 1928 in The Sunday Express, though the suit had been around since steam power was invented and before that if you count military use”

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Oh, and don’t forget the ruler pocket down the leg, though in all my years of spannering, I’ve never once seen anyone with a ruler down the pocket of a boiler suit. The only time I did, I flounced around pretending to be a proper engineer until I crouched over a wheel and the steel rule poked me sharply and painfully in the bum.

One source suggests the first use of the term boiler suit was in 1928 in The Sunday Express, though the suit had been around since steam power was invented and before that if you count military use.

Defining these all-in-ones, however, is tricky. They’re slippery things to pin down be they suits of the: Boiler; Jump; Pilots’; Drivers’; the Sidcot, and the Siren kind; or the tight-fitting movie catsuits worn by Marianne Faithfull in Girl On A Motorcycle, Michelle Pfeiffer in Batman, or Diana Rigg in The Avengers – steady on there!

My sister-in-law, who once sported an eye-poppingly sexy jump suit to a party, confessed that it was not only uncomfortable and awkward to wear, but also made going to the loo a virtual impossibility.

Vogues Fashion Encyclopedia tells us that ‘the jumpsuit is a slim-fitting, one-piece garment that covers the arms and legs.’ It was originally created in 1919 as a no-nonsense garment for parachutists, but by the 1930s, fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli was creating softer, shapelier jump suits for women. World War Two, however, bought boiler suits back to the fore with the Howard Miller/Norman Rockwell image of Rosie the Riveter, the muscled poster girl for American women working in shipyards and aircraft factories. Similarly, the Russian social-realist images of super women in WWII propaganda posters, many of them clad in baggy boiler suits.

Winston Churchill bought his own spin to the boiler suit with his ‘siren’ suit, so called because it was a simple zip-up coverall to pull over your pyjamas if the air-raid siren summoned you to a shelter in the middle of the night. Typically, Churchill found them far too convenient to restrict to mere emergency nightwear when the Luftwaffe was overhead. He had them run up in suiting material and velvet of various hues by London tailors (I once saw a red velvet Churchill siren suit displayed in the front window of Turnbull & Asser), and wore them during the day at Chartwell to meetings with high-level world leaders.

He looked ridiculous, like a giant cigar-smoking baby in a romper suit. There’s a great photo where Churchill is showing off his prototype onesie to Dwight Eisenhower, and the American supreme allied commander and later US President is trying to choke back his laughter.

Boiler suit geeks can spot detail differences a mile off

Sir Stirling models the iconic blue Dunlop overalls

Then there are spin offs, the RAF Sidcot flying suit invented in 1917 by Sidney Cotton, an Australian pioneer aviator and used in the First World War, developed further for WWII, then later equipped with all manner of zip and knee pockets for modern military pilots. (Question: how do you know there’s a pilot in the room? Answer: they’ll tell you soon enough.)

Driver’s overalls were first used in the 1950s, perhaps the best known being the white or blue Dunlop overalls made by Les Leston seen in reproduction form at historic race events such as the Goodwood Revival. With fire an ever present risk in motorsport, drivers such as Jackie Stewart pushed for more flame protection from their suits (there’s an extraordinary picture of him in 1968 clad in what looks like a giant one piece oven glove). These days Formula 1’s quilted, layered driver suits are fire-resistant walking billboards, though no one has ever told me if the embroidered advertisers’ patches are as fireproof as the suits.

Meanwhile, back at the boiler suit, my brother William is a font of information. His career in applications engineering at an industrial engine manufacturer has yielded all manner of fireproof, high-vis, quilted and single-skin boiler suits. Environmental and safety requirements dictate their use, he tell me. They all have their good points, and Will seems to have a boiler suit for every occasion, weather and eventuality.

To my mind, though, my Tranemo reigns supreme. If I could actually bring myself to wear the bloody thing, it would be better still.